Your Net Worth is Gross

Which weighs more, a pound of feathers or a pound of bricks?

Trick question of course but consider this:  two couples have the same net worth, $2 million.  One couple has $2 million in Roth IRAs and the other has $2 million in taxable IRAs.

Which couple has the higher net worth?  Obviously, the first couple, because they have no tax liability on this money. 

Based on this simple example, I’d like to introduce the concept of Gross Worth to differentiate it from Net Worth.

We are told that Net Worth is all of your assets minus all of your liabilities.  This is really Gross Worth.  Gross Worth does not account for the transactional cost of accessing your money. 

Net Worth is Gross Worth less transaction and tax costs of converting assets to spendable cash. 

Why this matters:  in very general terms one achieves Financial Independence (FI) when one’s Investment Net Worth is 25x one’s net annual expenses (subtract income sources such as rental income, social security, pensions from annual expenses, investments must cover the rest).   However, when considering the transaction costs and tax consequences of converting various investments/assets into cash, it turns out that what we have been counting as Net Worth has been Gross Worth and we must take the difference into account.

Before proceeding further let me stipulate that I am neither a tax expert nor an estate expert.  The information below is my understanding of the consequences of converting various assets to spendable cash.  It is not advice.  If you have better information, please post it in the comments. 

Let’s work our way through various assets and account types to see how this works. One term that will come up is Basis – this is your cost/value of an asset for tax purposes. 

Real Estate

Personal Residence:  Financial planners typically exclude one’s personal residence from net worth calculations, as they should when preparing an income statement/budget. After all, one cannot spend one’s house to pay the utility bill.  That said, a house is still part of one’s worth, but we should separate gross worth from net worth.  Typically, the calculation is the current market value of the house less the mortgage. However, if one is selling the house, the transaction costs reduce its value.  Where I live, this can easily be 9-10% of the selling price.

One might also monetize this differential by refinancing, taking out a second mortgage or a HELOC. Finally, as one ages it becomes possible and perhaps valuable to do a reverse mortgage.  This can be thought of as one’s final emergency fund if one is able to stay in this home. These refi options come with transaction costs and lenders will not normally refinance up to 100% of a home’s value.

Finally there is the tax consideration.  Under current tax law there is a $250,000 exemption for single filers and a $500,000 exemption for married filers on the profit one makes from selling one’s personal residence. One must reside in the home for at least 2 of the last 5 years.  So, if one has lived in a house for a very long time and the gain from the sale of the home is higher than these amounts, the difference is subject to capital gains tax.  If one does not keep the house for 2 years then there is no exemption. In either case, the gross worth of the equity in one’s house may not be the same as one’s net worth.

The final consideration is inheritance. If the house passes to a child, the child gets a step-up in basis, meaning the starting point for future tax calculations becomes the value of the house on the date of death. 

In my own net worth calculation, I value my house at less than market value for these reasons.

Rental Real Estate:  The same transaction cost caveat as described above applies to rental real estate as well. One way investors can pull cash from their properties without selling them is to refinance occasionally, assuming of course the property has appreciated.  As noted above, there are transaction costs for refinancing. The advantage to this strategy is that one delays paying taxes, as would be the case when selling the property. Net worth calculations should take into account these transaction costs if this is the strategy.

Speaking of tax considerations, taxpayers are required to depreciate rental real estate. This shields some current year profit from current year income taxes but not necessarily forever.  When selling rental real estate, the accumulated depreciation is recaptured – this means it is taxed at ordinary rates.  The remaining gain on the sale is taxed at capital gains tax rates.  Reminding the reader that I am not giving advice, I always set aside 1/3 of the amount I received from selling rental property to cover the recaptured and capital gains taxes and at the tax rates in effect at the time this proved to be enough.  Effectively this meant that my net worth for these properties was 2/3 of Gross Worth.

Heirs also benefit from step-up in basis for this asset.

Jewelry and Collectibles

What are the chances that you have kept track of the purchase price of every valuable piece of jewelry, or every collectible coin, stamp, or piece of art?  Mine are 0.  At least with coins and many stamps there is a face value (until forever stamps came along anyway). Determining gross or net worth of any of these assets seems problematical, and financial planners typically do not include them.  If we are talking about real value here, an appraisal will be needed and this will be the transaction cost.  If one is selling to a dealer, since they are in business to make a profit, they will offer something less than current market value and this should also be considered (ever watch Pawn Stars?).  Heirs will benefit from step-up in basis but the appraisal would be required to determine what that new basis is.  Depending on the value of these assets, they should be insured, which is an annual cost to consider. 

Financial Instruments:  Stocks/Bonds/Mutual Funds/ETFs

Financial assets (stocks/bonds/Mutual Funds/ETFs) are cheap to buy/sell (transaction costs) and easy to convert to cash.  This was not always the case.  Forty some years ago, when I was in my 20s, these assets had the following characteristics:

  • Stocks had to be purchased in lots of 100 shares or an odd lot fee was charged.  One could only purchase shares in whole units and a commission was charged for each transaction.
  • Bonds had to be purchased in groups of at least 3 (my best recollection) and commissions were charged
  • Mutual Funds had front-end loads (purchase price commission) as high as 5.75%.  There were annual fees on the accounts and the annual costs paid by the fundholders to the fund managers could be 2-3% or more. 
  • ETFs did not exist.  (there are only slight differences between ETFs and MFs for those who trade infrequently they are insignificant). 

This has changed greatly in the past 20 years. 

  • Stocks can be purchased in any number of shares, even fractional shares with no penalty.  The purchase is commission free when purchased online. 
  • Bonds can be purchased individually.  I don’t do this so I am not sure if there is still a commission or trading fee.
  • Front-end loaded mutual funds still exist, but there are so many more no-load options and the front-end loaded mutual funds do not perform any better so there is no need to buy them.  I no longer pay annual fees.  This may be because of the value of my account though.  The annual costs for many funds, especially index funds for non-specialty funds are typically less than 0.5% and index funds are as low as 0.03% or less.
  • There are equivalent ETFs for existing mutual funds and the industry seems to be heading in this direction.  To the investor the only differences I am aware of are that the valuation is calculated in real time (MFs are valued at the end of the trading day), and transactions occur immediately.  With MFs, the trade occurs at the end of the trading day when the fund is valued for that day. 

For these financial instruments the transaction cost is now zero or close to zero, so this does not impact the difference between Gross and Net Worth. 

The impact to Gross vs Net worth is a function of what account type financial instruments are held in.  Account types include after-tax, retirement pre-tax, retirement Roth, HSAs, and inherited variations.

After-tax accounts – these are accounts set up at your favorite brokerage (eg Vanguard, Fidelity, Schwab) with after tax money.  One may fund these accounts by setting up a transfer relationship between a checking account and the brokerage account.  One transfers money from the checking account to the brokerage account and then chooses one or more of the financial instruments described above.  One can schedule transfers and automatic purchases as well. 

The tax consequences of these accounts can depend on the holding period and the exact instrument being purchased.  Investments held for less than one year are taxed as ordinary income.  Investments that are held for more than one year are taxed at lower capital gains rates.  Fully qualified dividends (FQD) are also taxed at capital gains rates.  Mutual Funds/ETFs may report dividends (FQD or ordinary dividends) and capital gains monthly, quarterly, or annually (or any combination).  One can somewhat control how much one earns in dividends and capital gains with the purchase/sale of individual stocks.  One has no control over this with MF/ETFs.  Some MF/ETFs will attempt to keep these to a minimum, others may not.  One can donate appreciated assets from these accounts to a charity (without selling them first) to avoid paying taxes on them, yet still get credit for the appreciated amount (if itemizing deductions).  Heirs realize a step-up in basis for these assets.

The Gross Worth/Net Worth difference then is determined by how one disposes of the assets (sells them, donates them, bequeaths them).

Retirement Pre-Tax – these include traditional IRAs, 401Ks, 403Bs, TSPs, etc.  Traditional IRAs are set up similarly to after-tax accounts (open account with your brokerage firm, fund from your checking account).  They are designated as IRA accounts and there are annual contribution limits and income limits.  The other traditional accounts are set up through one’s employer (self-employed individuals have additional options based on how their self-employment is set up). 

The money invested in these accounts is subtracted from taxable income in the year contributed, saving the taxpayer on federal and state income taxes.  Taxes are paid on withdrawals which are taxed as ordinary income no matter the financial instrument.  As this income has never been taxed, the government requires the taxpayer to begin distributions in their early to mid-70s (exact date depends on date of birth).  These are called Required Minimum Distributions, RMDs.  RMDs are based on life expectancy tables.  They start close to 4% and increase with age.  A portion of the RMD can be donated to charity, avoiding the taxes on them (but they are not deductible on one’s taxes). 

With some specific exceptions outside the scope of this article, one cannot withdraw from these accounts until at least 59.5 without paying a 10% penalty. 

The rules on inheritance depend in part on what year the owner dies.  There is no immediate tax consequence for spouses, but for all others they will pay the taxes on this income.  I am not qualified to address all the complexities.  Depending on the details many may be required to take withdrawals (and pay the income taxes) over a 10-year period.  Others will be required to take withdrawals based on their life expectancy or the life expectancy of their bequeather. 

The difference between Gross Worth and Net Worth for pre-tax accounts depends on the taxes (and possibly penalties) one may pay on the distributions.   This difference can be significant.  Planning may be useful to optimize when to take the distributions based on one’s specific future income expectations.  One will only know if the pre-tax retirement account was a better option than other retirement accounts much later in life.

Roth Accounts

Roth accounts are funded with after tax dollars and grow tax free forever.  So, the Gross Worth value and Net Worth value of these accounts are identical.  They are tax free to heirs as well. 

HSA Accounts

HSA (Health Savings) accounts can be triple or quadruple tax free.  To open an HSA account, one must choose a qualifying high deductible health plan.  The insurance premiums for these plans are typically much cheaper than for standard plans and when subsidized by one’s employer, can be very inexpensive.  The drawback of course is the high deductible, i.e. the annual maximum out of pocket expenses.  For ACA plans I have seen the deductible in the $13000 range, but for corporate sponsored plans it can be as low as $6000.  These numbers are for family coverage. These plans can work best for families that generally have low annual medical expenses and for families that are likely to max out.

The tax savings for choosing these plans include:

  • Contributions are made pre-tax and can be invested in a number of ETFs depending on the plan.
  • Investment growth is tax free.
  • Withdrawals are tax free if there are corresponding covered medical expenses that can go back to original time of enrollment in the plan. 
  • The 4th benefit depends on the amount of FICA wages earned per year.  The current FICA maximum is about $168,000.  If one earns less than this per year, and if the HSA contributions are made through payroll deductions, the amount contributed is not subject to the FICA tax. 

In addition, employers may make contributions to the HSA.  There is an annual cap on contributions, regardless of who contributes. 

The strategy works well for those who can pay their medical bills out of pocket while letting the account grow.  It does require one to keep records of the medical bills accrued during the life of the plan, to be able to use this money tax free later.  If the account outgrows one’s total accumulated medical expenses, the remaining value in the account can be used as a taxable IRA at age 65 (no RMDs apply though).  If an account is bequeathed to a child or other non-spouse beneficiary, it is taxable income to the heir in the year of the bequest.

If one has enough medical expenses to withdraw from this account later in life, then the Gross Worth of this account is equal to the Net Worth.  If the account effectively becomes a taxable IRA or is inherited by a non-spouse, the normal differences in GW vs NW would apply.  

Summary

The transaction costs and tax consequences of liquidating an asset can reduce its cash value.  It is therefore helpful to think of the market value of an asset as part of one’s Gross Worth and the liquid value of that same asset as part of one’s Net Worth.  The value to a beneficiary may be maintained by step-up in basis but may be reduced by tax consequences as well.  A pound of feathers may not weigh the same as a pound of bricks.

Is Your Home Part of Your Net Worth?

In the ChooseFI community if someone posts a question about housing such as:

  • should I buy or rent?
  • should I pay off my mortgage early?
  • is my house part of my net worth?

A long thread will begin with many great arguments on both sides of these questions.  Posters have strong opinions on these topics.  As the group is now Over 15000 members, if even 1% respond, that is over 150 posts.

This post will address whether to count your house as part of your net worth,  especially as you get older and as the house is paid off.

My story:  it took us 22 years to pay off our mortgage.  With 5 years to go, we refinanced the last $87,000 on a five year balloon, amortized over a 30 year period, at 2.625%, with bi-weekly payments.  This amounted to paying .0101% interest every two weeks.  (Thirty year amortization means the payment is set to the equivalent of a 30 year mortgage. )

A balloon mortgage means that at the end of the balloon period, five years in this case, we would have to pay the balance of the mortgage off.  This would normally be quite risky (if one made the minimum payments as if it were a 30 year loan) but in this case they had an out:  for $200, one could get another 5 years at the rate current at that time.

I did some calculations and realized that if I kept my mortgage payment  the same as it had been before refinancing, I could pay this off in the 5year window, which is what I wanted to do anyway, so I saw no downside.  My  old mortgage was a 10 year term at 4.75% and would have taken me a bit longer to pay off.

Worst case, if something happened to my income, I could have reverted to the minimum payments (which were very small) and taken the second 5 year term.  This did not happen and we paid off our mortgage a couple months before I turned 60!

Back to the question – but is this part of your net worth?  Financial advisors, who earn their living managing what they call your ‘investable assets’ do not count your home’s value.  Not maligning them, but I think this is because they cannot make money off this asset – they often make their money from the assets you place under their control to invest.  I can understand why they do not count it.

Another factor is liquidity.  Stocks, bonds, mutual funds, CDs,  and similar investments can all be converted to usable cash fairly quickly (within a few days at most).  These are called liquid investments.

Real estate, whether it is your house or a rental property, cannot be sold and converted to cash quickly under normal circumstances.  A property needs to be cleaned, fixed up and staged (made to look attractive for buyers).  It needs to be advertised or otherwise promoted.  The potential buyers need to be vetted and the title company will take time to arrange for the closing.  Real estate is therefore deemed an illiquid investment.

But you can make money off your house.  It plays an important part in your retirement strategy.

I recall watching a number of westerns that feature a widow who has turned her house into a boarding house in order to earn enough money to keep it after her husband has passed.  The Shootist comes to mind.  Today we call this house hacking.  We have tools like airbnb to manage this.

Can I picture doing this in my own house?  Not now.  But if push came to shove, it is an option. (But, I suspect Mrs. TieDye wouldn’t approve.)

Another approach is to use the house like an ATM.  Another topic that generates a long thread on the ChooseFI site (and other sites as well) is whether one should maintain an emergency fund.  A counter argument to the emergency fund is to have all possible dollars invested.  This line of reasoning posits that one could open a HELCO (Home Equity Line of Credit) and tap this for emergencies.   Please note that interest rates on HELCOs are variable.  Perhaps not a great idea in a time of rising rates.

Confession:  we almost had our first house paid off in the mid-late 1980s.  We had borrowed in the early 80s when interest rates were very high.  In 1983 I had purchased two rental units for ‘no money down.’  This was not literally true, but it was close.  Turns out that for a time they became cash flow negative.  At the same time, interest rates were dropping.  So I refinanced our house and paid off one of the rentals.  Now I had about the same amount of mortgage debt, but at a much lower rate.  I figured I could now use the positive cash flow from this rental to pay down my first mortgage.  I also used a HELOC at some point in this process.

Be honest now, how many of you tapped the equity in your house to buy a new car or pay for a an expensive vacation or some other large purchase?  Hopefully you learned that you were still making payments long after the asset had declined in value (or disappeared altogether) and determined that you wouldn’t do that again.

If you don’t mind risking losing your home to foreclosure, you can always tap the equity in retirement.  (I hope you can tell by the way I wrote this sentence that I don’t really recommend this.)  I did it when I was young and had time to recover should something have gone south.  I don’t think I would ‘bet the farm’ in or approaching retirement.

So, If I we are ruling out house hacking and using your house as an ATM, why is it still part of your net worth?  For 3 reasons:

1. Imputed rent – If we downsized our life we could in theory move to a two bedroom apartment (especially after my son moves out, which he asserts will happen this year).  If we stayed in this area, we could end up paying $1800 – $2000 per month rent.  Our utilities would be cheaper and we would not have property taxes.  The net difference at the $2000 level would be around $1500 – 1600 per month (although no maintenance costs).  That would be about $20,000 a year we would need in our budget or at least $500,000 more in net worth.  So not renting (in this area) is worth about that much.  As long as I am working we are bound to living in this area.   Note that we would have the net from selling our house and moving, so that is a large chunk of that $500K, but not all of it.    Oh, by the way, rents tend to go up over time!

Not to mention we’d have less privacy.  We have a one-acre property, as do our neighbors.  We are close enough that we see them and can visit if we want,  but far enough to be just right.  Apartments don’t quite offer the same level of privacy as a large backyard!.    I like my neighbors,  my neighborhood, and my trees.   I cannot imagine living in an apartment complex if I did not need to.

So it seems fair to count my house in my net worth as it helps me avoid a large cash flow expense, in the same way that invested assets provide an income stream to pay for other cash flow expenses.

2. Geo-arbitrage – Some FI-ers who live in a high cost of living area (HCOL) are able to pay down their mortgage while they are earning the big bucks.  At retirement they sell the expensive real estate and move to a LCOL area, buying a new house debt free and banking the difference.  This is called geo-arbitrage, profiting from the difference in prices between two locations.

In our case, it may not be that easy.   My wife and I are not very good at de-cluttering which is a pre-requisite for moving (in order to sell the house as mentioned earlier in this article).

For others though, it seems fair to count the house as part of one’s net worth if this strategy is a real possibility.

3. Reverse Mortgage – This is the last card to be played in the financial deck.  Assume for sake of discussion you did the best you could to lower your expenses, you saved an amount you thought would be enough to see you through and you tried hard to live on 3-4% of your invested assets (plus pensions, social security, side hustles and any other source of income).  Despite your best efforts, you reach your 80s and you realize you are going to outlive your assets.  If it is unrealistic to sell your house and move to an LCOL area, or to rent in the same area, you could always get a reverse mortgage.

A reverse mortgage is somewhat misnamed – it is a mortgage like any other, except no monthly payments are required; the debt is settled when you die (or move permanently into a nursing home).  The debt accrues interest according to the contract.  At settlement time the lender may get fully repaid if the house appreciated faster than the loan, and/or you did not live too long.  If you remain healthy and are able to stay in the house a long time, the lender may lose on the deal.  Suffice it to say they can do the math better than you and will probably make a safe bet most of the time (or they will go out of business).   They purchase insurance to cover themselves for their worst case outcome.

Because of the way the math works and their desire to stay in business, the lender will not lend near the full amount of the house.  They have to preserve a margin for the interest to accrue so they will be able to collect.  There are also larger fees for a reverse mortgage (that insurance I mentioned? Your fees are what’s really paying for the insurance, not them).

The upside of a reverse mortgage is that you do not have to make payments and you get to stay in your house until you can’t.  The downside is that the mortgage costs more and in most cases there will be nothing to pass to your heirs – (your heirs will be offered first right of refusal to pay the mortgage off and retain the property, but they must do so in a short period of time).

While I characterize this as a last resort, it is still another reason you can count your house as part of your net worth.

As I See It:  If you are young, not close to retirement, have extra money to invest, and have locked in a low interest mortgage, you may not be in a hurry to pay it off – it took us 22 years and the last 10 years were at a low interest rates (comparatively speaking).  However, once paid off, your living expenses decrease, and the amount you need invested to support your retirement is less.  There are ways to convert your house into money (although make no mistake, this is an illiquid investment).  Therefore, it is appropriate to count this asset in your net worth.